NCR DIY String Line Kit

If you’re tired of paying for alignments or needing to trailer the car to a workshop to get an one done, it’s time to consider doing it yourself.

The NCR kit is $250 (inc postage in Aus) and includes 12 high quality 3d printed pieces and all the nuts and thumbscrews preinstalled ready to go.

Filaments vary between batches, but the kit will always be black with a blue logo. The finish may be matte or gloss depending on the filament used. Every effort is taken to ensure a quality finish, but visual imperfections do occur from time to time and will not impact functionality.

To complete the kit and use it in its most basic form you will also need:

– Aluminium lengths: 25mm CHS and 20mm SHS, these will set you back under $100 from your local supplier and can also be found at Bunnings.

See pic below for lengths used on my 86 and S13, you may need to adjust accordingly for your vehicle. Times by 2 for front and back.

– 2 lengths of string: Cheap string line is $5 at Bunnings.

That’s it! Join the many satisfied kit users today and start smashing those PBs!

If you’d like to order, just Message us on Facebook

How do you use this kit? Start by watching this video and you’ll soon be aligning like a pro in no time.

One suggestion I would add is regarding track width, you can ignore differences in the cars track width front to back by first ensuring your horizontal bars (CHS) are the same length front and rear and then cutting notches inset at both ends of each bar at matching distances. For example, cut notches at 25mm, 50mm, 100mm in from each end, whatever works for your car width and bar length (see pic below).

Now, place your strings in the matching notches all round (i.e. both strings 50mm in from the end of each bar on both sides front and back). Move the bars in the holders left/right as needed so the measured distance from the hub face of each wheel to the string is equal across a given axle. It could be 58mm from strings to hub on each wheel in the front and 78mm in the rear, a difference is normal front to back, what matters is the distance is equal to each wheel for a specific axle and that the strings are in the same cut notches on the bars.

When you have done this front and rear, you know the strings are parallel to the car. Record those measurements and you will be able to square the strings to the car very quickly next time.

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To make the alignment process easier I also suggest the following additions:

– Slip plates: Allowing the wheel to move freely during adjustment will avoid needing to move the car/bounce the suspension etc. I converted my TTI Wheel Dollies into slip plates with $100 worth of 6mm plate steel (fine for 86, but you may need thicker for a heavier car) and some thick plastic slips with silicon spray in-between them (see pics). Commercial options also exist that are not prohibitively expensive (see pics).

– Camber guage/setup: Toe and Camber are linked in many cars, meaning changing one will effect the other. I use a $20 digital angle gauge from eBay (see pic) and similar can be found at Bunnings.

Alternatively, a length of left over aluminum, a level, a ruler/Vernier’s and some basic math can achieve a similar result. Please see this string line tutorial and scroll down to the Camber section for an overview.

– Wheel cribs/stands: You will need space to get under the car and make adjustments. Ideally you will do this with the car fully loaded on its suspension (not in the air) to avoid needing to settle the suspension after each change to make your measurements repeatable.

My converted wheel dollies are high enough for me, but others have built/bought various setups to provide adequate space to work (see pics).

Ready to go? Message us on Facebook to get your kit now.